The loo with a view ...

Day 3: Altitude 4350m

Today was such a memorable day. We embarked on a shorter climb than the day previous, although it was most definitely a steeper incline than the day previous. We were considerably slower today with several of us adding a third pole to 'pole pole'. We are all acutely aware of the need to slow our pace to increase chances of summitting. It is at times hard to go so slow and at times quite comfortable - breathing is afterall becoming increasingly more and more difficult. Frequent water, museli bar and chocolate stops seem to give us a renewed enthusiasm.

What I loved about today were the stunning landscapes we were exposed to. We were just plain spoiled really. We made our way along tracks that traced the side of several ridge lines, exposing us to views of both Kenya and Tanzania. Breathtaking. It is thrilling to know that we are experiencing just the beginning of such scenic shots.

As a team I am loving the interactions that are taking place. There are several in the group that seem to keep us entertained with constant laughes and frequent comic relief moments. It has also become apparent who the camp mothers are - those that race to your side when you are in need of medication, extra water or a reminder that climbing the mountain was indeed a very good idea. Overall morale runs high. It certainly helps that we are all constantly on the alert for one another, ready to disperse encouragement where necessary. As a group of such varied personalities and diverse professions we are remarkably united in this challenge. Meal times have become my favourite time of the day. These are the times where banter takes place over delicious concoctions made at the hands of our adored cook Thomas. We are all essentially becoming more and more united over this shared experience. The fact that we are all beginning to look rather shabby certainly aids in such unification. It is becoming increasingly more and more hysterical how little we care for how we look or what information we share with those that were until very recently complete strangers.

During our climb today we were treated to Phil Bish giving us a rundown of what each of our nicknames were and why. Apparently mine is 'Trelise Cooper'due to my eclectic tramping atire style. I am certainly one to drool over in my striped thermals, red beanie with extended hat that runs down my back and my loud Billabong sweater. Hey, it is a matter of practicality! Jo and Julie are called the Topp twins as they are just simply hysterical when together. They collectively have great senses of humour and have us in stitches throughout each day. There is nothing quite as refreshing as someone with a wickedly funny dry sense of humour.

We completed our climb today within a few hours and upon climbing over the last ridge for the day we were absolutely stunned to see that our next campsite was situated next to the indesribeably beautiful Mawenzi Tarn (the smaller of the two Kili peaks), with view of the Mawenzi Northern Ampitheatre. We were literally nestled right in next to the mountain side, snow capped peaks framing our view. You could not have wished for a more picturesque location.

The air is most definitely thinner up here. So much so that simple maneouvours such as rolling over in a sleeping bag or embarking on a late night toilet run is enough to enduce panting. It is also considerably colder with temperatures dropping as the sun moves out of view. A funny plus to this campsite is one of the long drops. Until now I have avoided long drops however this particular long drop has no door and instead is facing the edge of the ridge line, overlooking the spectular valley far below. It is our loo with a view! I have used it several times and still cannot get over the novelty. The smell and extreme cold experienced are negated by the view. In fact some believe this loo to have the advantage of continual air flow thus lessening the near-pass out induing qualities of the long drop. It wasn't long before I heard Jo's scream of excitement at her success in having a bowel movement. I was envious to say the least. I mean talk about one extreme to the other. There are now still two of us that are wishing for such an occurance. How humbling it is when one begins to pray for such basic needs.

At this point in the challenge I can report that most participants are struggling, even if just slightly, with headaches and/or some degree of nausea. I am still enormously lucky to have not been affected at all in this way. One participant in particular is struggling considerably with these symptoms. Poor Marilyn has been found throwing up outside her tent for the last couple of hours. She remains steadfastly determined to get through this and I am hoping that she will indeed pull through. She is one tough cookie and I admire that in her. She is one of the oldest on this challenge and without a doubt the one that is probably most likely to be able to pull upon her reserves of resilience to get to the top of the giant Kili. She has the enormously attentive and sweet guides keeping a close eye on her. The guides may appear to be ultra relaxed and even aloof however that is most certainly not the case. They are watching us like hawkes, monitoring fluid intake and altitude related symptoms.

Other than the altitude sickness related symptoms all participants are in considerably good health. Sharyn quite accurately pointed out that our wonderful support crew can be credited with this as they have clearly been cautious in their preparation of our meals and with the water they have supplied us each day. It has been fantastic to not have to worry about adding water purification tablets to our water each day - eek.

I had quite the embarrassing experience occur at dinner tonight. Well it was no secret that both Sharyn and I have been patiently waiting for our digestive systems to adjust to normal... Well during a briefing just after dinner I had that familiar tummy rumbling that signaled that I had just minutes to exit the tent and reach the loo with a view. I waited for Ingwe to finish his briefing only to realise that my time was indeed limited. My tentmate saw the look on my face along with my tight grip across my stomach and promptly moved aside. Unfortuntely I was seated on the far side of the very cosy meeting tent and had to effectively knock into six people in order to get out - quick. Everyone quickly clued into what was happening and screamed encouragement as I raced the short distance to my tent (and thus my toilet paper) and then to the long drop. I prayed to God that I would not trip as I am prone to doing. Well upon my return I had a tent full of faces watching for my reaction. I smiled, bowed and was of course covered in cheers. Embarrassing.

Sleep update: terrible. It is not easy to get a good night's sleep on the mountain. The cold air, rocky ground (c'mon bed roll, work your magic damn it!), the diuretic side effects associated with Diamox (our altitude sickness prevention drug) and thin air make uninterrupted sleep a luxury.

Funny side note: everyone on the team is convinced that my bag is extroadinarily heavy as my porter is always last into camp - sometimes barely reaching the camp before us. Truth be told he is the oldest porter who has been climbing Kili for 30 years! He is a skinny man with a face that tells a thousand tales. I feel terrible for making him carry my backpack when I see how hard he struggles to keep up with the other porters so have resorted to slowly gifting him with my Mars Bar collection!

Superficial note: the dry shampoo is no longer effective.